Potato cinnamon rolls

This is my current favorite cinnamon roll recipe, adapted from "Jailhouse potato-cinnamon rolls" in Pastry Queen by Rebecca Rather.  I've added an overnight rise inspired by Alton Brown, cut the recipe in half so it fits in a mixer, and found I need more flour (and more baking time) than Rather claims.  The recipe still feeds an army (16 good-sized rolls), but it can be doubled with big enough bowls.  (Use 3 whole eggs instead of 2 eggs and 2 yolks.)

Start by peeling, cubing,  and boiling one medium russet potato for ~15 minutes in unsalted water.  Save the water and let it cool to ~110 F (or add a little ice to speed it on its way).  Mash 8 oz of potato in the stand mixer using the beater or whisk.  Now, you can combine the other ingredients directly in the mixer using the whisk:

1. 8 oz (1 c) mashed russet potato
2. 1.5 c potato water, cooled to <110 f="" li="">
3. 4 t (0.5 oz) rapid-rise or bread-machine yeast
4. 2 5/8 oz (3/8 c) sugar
5. 1 stick (1/2 c) butter, melted
6. 1 egg plus 1 yolk
7. 1 t salt

Whisk well to combine, then use the dough hook to mix in flour just until the dough comes together:

1. 30 oz (~6 c) unbleached all-purpose flour

Let dough rise, covered, until doubled, about 1 hour.  (It will fill the mixer bowl to the top.)
For the filling, use either

1. 2 c brown sugar
2. 1 T cinnamon
3. 2 c toasted pecans (optional)

or

1. 2 c granulated sugar
2. 1 T orange zest (from one orange)

Divide the dough in half, and roll each half out into a large rectangle.  Brush each half with

1. 2-3 T melted butter

Top each dough half with half the filling, roll it up, and slice into 8 rolls (16 total).  We typically arrange these as a Christmas tree shape on a half sheet pan (rows of 1, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1).  You could also put them in a 9x13 pan (5 rows of 3, cut one less roll) or two smaller pans.  Refrigerate overnight;  rolls will rise slowly.  Alternately, freeze rolls and wrap well;  thaw overnight in the refrigerator.

Remove rolls from refrigerator and preheat oven to 375 F.  (Set rolls over a pan of hot water if they need to rise more, although they will expand significantly in the oven.)  Bake rolls until dough is set in the centermost rolls, about 35-40 minutes in the Christmas tree configuration.  I think the dough in the middle needs to reach 175-180 F or so to set -- in the Christmas tree configuration, the rolls on the edges are deeply browned by this point.  Next time I might try a somewhat lower temperature for a longer time, or tenting the top with foil.  Baking time in a high-sided pan is likely to be quite different, but might result in more uniform rolls.

Cinnamon rolls should be frosted with

1. 4 3/4 oz (1 1/4 c) powdered sugar
2. 2 T buttermilk (or milk)
3. 1/4 t vanilla extract

Orange rolls should be frosted with

1. 4 3/4 oz (1 1/4 c) powdered sugar
2. 2 T fresh-squeezed orange juice (from one orange)
3. 1 T orange zest (from one orange)

I've tried using orange extract to amp up the orange flavor of these rolls, but the alcohol gave it an unpleasant taste.  I'm considering a mixed citrus version (lime?  grapefruit?) next year.

Bacon caramels with smoked salt

The holidays always make me want to bake.  And for some reason, they particularly make me want to try something new or more elaborate than I've done before.  So this year, I've been making a lot of candy for Christmas.  Even as a kid, I was at least as partial to caramel flavors as to chocolate.  I also have my mother's love of salt, so salted caramel is a near-perfect candy already.

Which brings me to bacon caramel.  This variation was inspired by my brother-in-law Tommy, who is (tragically!) allergic to chocolate, and who generally prefers meat to candy.  When I tell people about this flavor combo, I usually get raised eyebrows at a minimum.  I, too, was skeptical.  But then the folks who dip their bacon in the leftover pancake syrup start to reconsider.  And after testing on a dozen friends and co-workers, there's been a unanimous thumbs up.

I wish I could claim to have thought of it first, but a quick Google proves I didn't.  Still, I think my version packs in more bacon deliciousness than any of the other contenders!  What follows is a basic recipe for caramels from the Ultimate Southern Living Cookbook, followed by the bacon version and two other sweet variations.

Basic Caramels

If using a candy thermometer, put it in a pot of boiling water to see how far off 212 F it is.  Match the depth of the water to the expected depth of the caramel mixture.  If you're inclined to skip this step, don't use a thermometer at all -- it will likely do you more harm than good.

In a large, deep pot, combine

1. 2 sticks (1 c) butter
2. 2 c (14 oz) granulated sugar
3. 2 c (16 oz) light corn syrup
4. 1 c heavy whipping cream

Stainless steel is preferable because it makes it easier to judge the color of the caramel, but anything will work.  Use a big pot, much bigger than you think you need;  this stuff expands a lot.  Cook over medium to around 224 F, stirring occasionally.  Adjust the target temperature based on how far off your thermometer is.  If it read e.g. 206 in the boiling water (6 degrees off), you'll want to target 224 - 6 = 218 F.  While it's bubbling, cover it with a lid for a few minutes -- the steam should wash down in stray sugar crystals stuck to the sides.  (With so much corn syrup, I don't think there's much danger of crystallization, but it can't hurt.)  Now stir in

1. 1 c heavy whipping cream

I'm not sure why recipes have you add the cream in two additions.  I'd guess only the final temperature matters, but I keep doing it this way out of superstition.  Now the precise part:  cook to exactly 246 - 248 F (again adjusted for your thermometer).  The mixture will take on that signature caramel color and a thick, stringy texture when stirred (reminiscent of a starter sponge for yeast dough).  A degree more or less at this stage makes a noticeable difference in the texture of the candy:  too low, and the caramel will ooze;  too high, and the caramel will be brittle.  I like to reduce the heat to low at this point so the caramel cooks a little more slowly, and I have more wiggle room.

About 5 degrees before done, start dropping spoonfuls of caramel into a little bowl of ice water.  Squeeze it flat with your fingers to help it chill.  When it's room temperature, pull it out and chew to check the texture.  When it's done, the super thin and spindly edges will probably crack (because they got colder) and the body of it will have a pleasantly firm chew.  It doesn't hurt to pull the pot off the heat while you're checking, so it doesn't get away from you.

Finally, stir in

1. 2 t vanilla extract

and any other last-minute additions.  Pour into a well-greased 9 x 13 baking pan.  I like to line mine with foil first (nonstick, if you've got it) to make things easier.  Sprinkle with

1. Fleur de sel or other coarse salt

if you like.  Let cool to room temperature, then cut into squares.

Bacon Caramels (original)

Before starting, thoroughly cook

1. 1/2 lb bacon, chopped

Stir often and lower the heat as it approaches done, to avoid burning.  Continue cooking until all fat is rendered and all bacon is very crisp.  Transfer bacon to paper towel-lined plate.  Chop bacon finely.  Pour hot bacon grease through a coffee filter set in a strainer, into a heatproof measuring cup.  (This is to remove any bits that might burn or spoil later.)  Use bacon grease to replace an equal amount of butter in the basic recipe (about 1/4 cup, half a stick).  Fold bacon in at the end, with the vanilla.  I like to use

1. applewood-smoked sea salt

from the Spice & Tea Exchange to top the caramels and really up that smokey bacon flavor.

Pecan Praline Caramels (original)

Replace 1 c of granulated sugar with 1 c brown sugar, and fold in 8 oz chopped toasted pecans with the vanilla.  Top with salt.

Ginger Fleur-de-sel Caramels (original)

Before starting, place ~2 oz peeled, thin-sliced ginger in a saucepan with the cream, and bring to a gentle simmer.  Turn off the heat and leave the ginger to steep for at least 15 minutes.  This imparts a subtle ginger note to the caramels without being too obvious.

Bûche de Noël (Yule Log cake)

After Katy and I made gingerbread houses for Evan and his friends to decorate, I got to thinking about holiday baking.  I decided it might be fun to try another classic show piece, the yule log -- maybe as a treat to celebrate my parents 35th anniversary when we went down to visit.  Two days later, I got this email from my mom:

Should we make something fabulous for dessert? I've always wanted to try one of these - Buche-de-Noel-with-Marzipan-Mushrooms

Great minds think alike, I guess.  So away we went.  There are lots of recipes on the internet, but some are pretty questionable -- the first cake recipe was a disaster that called for mixing melted chocolate with water, leading to gritty, nasty clumps of seized chocolate in the cake.  (That cake was reincarnated a few days later as a trifle, but that's another story.)  Eventually we cobbled together the necessary components from trusted sources, though, and the result was delicious!  Although I'm not known for, er, pretty food, decorating it was really straightforward too.

Jelly Roll Cake
(from the King Arthur Flour Baker's Companion)

In a stand mixer, whisk until thick and doubled or tripled in volume

1. 4 eggs, at room temperature
2. 3/4 c (5 1/4 oz) granulated sugar

Start the eggs first, then slow add the sugar as the mixer is running.  To quickly get the eggs to room temperature, put them in a bowl and cover with hot tap water for a few minutes.  Mix in

1. 1 t vanilla extract

Sift together

1. 3/4 c (3 oz) all-purpose flour *
2. 3/4 t baking powder
3. 1/4 t salt

Gently whisk the flour mixture into the egg mixture.  If you want a chocolate cake, replace the 3/4 c flour with 1/2 c flour plus 1/4 c cocoa (sifted).  I think the vanilla cake would look more like "wood" under the frosting "bark", but chocolate did work well for me.  Grease a 10" x 15" jelly roll pan, cover the bottom in parchment paper, grease again, and dust with flour (shaking out excess).  This is a very sticky cake -- don't try cutting corners!  Pour in the batter and smooth out to an even layer.  Bake at 400 F until the center is just barely set, about 12 minutes.  Err on the side of underbaking, as an overbaked cake will crack when you try to roll it.
Invert the cake onto a smooth dish towel dusted with powdered sugar (to prevent sticking).  Actually, my cake still stuck, so I'm considering greased wax paper plus powdered sugar next time.  Starting at a short edge, roll up the cake and towel together, and let cool completely on a wire rack.

Rich Chocolate Buttercream
(from The Ultimate Southern Living Cookbook)

Traditional buttercreams require a boiled sugar syrup, but easy buttercreams like this one just whip together butter and powdered sugar.  The double chocolate makes it extra flavorful.

In a double boiler, melt

1. 2 oz unsweetened chocolate
2. 2 oz semisweet chocolate

We used two squares each of Baker's.  You could also probably use the microwave. In a stand mixer, beat until creamy

1. 2 sticks (1 c) butter

Add the melted chocolate and

1. 4 c sifted powdered sugar
2. 1/4 c cocoa, sifted
3. 1/4 c milk
4. 2 t vanilla extract

Beat until creamy and spreadable.

Assembly and Garnish

Once the cake has cooled, unroll and spread evenly with about two-thirds of the frosting.  Leave an inch or two at one of the short ends lightly frosted, as frosting tends to squish forward when the cake is rolled up.  Starting at the other short end, roll the cake back up into a log.

Using a serrated knife, cut off about three inches from one end, at an angle.  (Some people trim both ends, to show off the frosting/cake spiral, but I liked the tree-like look of the crispy cake ends.)  Gently smoosh the cut end up against one side of the roll to make a branch.  Cover the cake in the remaining frosting.  Use the tines of a fork to make a few knots by turning them in a circle, then trace out wood grain by dragging the fork gently along the cake.

We weren't up for making marzipan holly or meringue mushrooms this year, so we used some real holly leaves (washed) with some fresh cranberries that were rolled in sugar while still wet.  (Holly berries are poisonous, so just in case, we removed the leaves after taking the picture.)  Use a strainer to dust a little powdered sugar over the top to create the snow effect, if desired.

Mom's meringue cookies

These were a Christmas tradition growing up -- airy shells of sugar filled with chocolate. They're delicate, crispy-crumbly, mostly dry but just a bit chewy in the middle. The recipe comes from my mother and her mother, and who knows before that. Prep is pretty simple and the ingredients are few, which may explain why Mom made hundreds of these for teacher gifts, family gatherings, and holiday parties.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, whip to until very foamy, but not yet beginning to peak (about 1 minute)

1. 2 egg whites

Any fat at all (greasy bowl, trace of yolk, etc) will keep the whites from reaching the appropriate volume.  Slowly add sugar, and whip at high speed until soft-to-medium peaks (this may take several minutes)

1. 2/3 c sugar (4 5/8 oz)

At medium speed, whip just until incorporated

1. 1 t vanilla extract
2. 1 t cream of tartar (can be omitted in a pinch)

With a rubber spatula, fold in

1. 1 c chocolate chips (6 oz)
2. 1/2 c pecans, chopped to the size of the chips (optional; I leave these out)

Portion out by level tablespoons into 3 dozen cookies on two well-buttered cookie sheets. (Parchment paper or a Silpat is even better.) The cookies don't spread, but will approximately double in volume when baked, so leave about 1.5" between. Place sheets in a preheated 350 F oven and immediately turn off the heat. Leave cookies in the closed oven overnight or at least 8 hours. They will be dry and crisp, but not browned.

My mother-in-law says that her mother made these with chopped berries, so I may try that next!

Turkey gravy

We hosted Thanksgiving for the first time this year, so it was my first time cooking a turkey. I followed the salted turkey recipe from last year's Cooks Illustrated, and it came out well. I think icing down the breast meat really did help everything finish at the same time.

For the gravy, on the other hand, I didn't have a recipe exactly. The day before, I had seen Alton Brown making one with red wine on TV, and I had the trusty Ultimate Southern Living -- but neither was quite what I (thought I) wanted. Funny enough, the gravy got more compliments than anything else I made. So I'm recording it here for next year!

In a medium saucepan, simmer for 45 minutes:

1. half an onion, chopped
2. handful of carrot pieces
3. celery seed (would've used celery if I'd had it)
4. 2 bay leaves
5. large spring fresh thyme
6. small bunch fresh parsley
7. salt and pepper
8. turkey neck
9. turkey gizzard and heart (no liver) (pictures for identifying the pieces)
   
10. water to cover

Strain, chill, skim. Yields ~3 cups stock.

While turkey is resting, pour off all drippings from the roasting pan (don't scrape). Place over burners, add ~1 cup stock, and scrape until all browned bits are dissolved and pan is clean.

In a medium saucepan, make a roux with

1. 4 T butter (half a stick)
2. 1/4 c flour

Pour in pan juices through a fine-mesh sieve and whisk to combine. Whisk in additional broth as needed to reach desired consistency, keeping in mind that full thickening won't happen until the gravy comes to a simmer.