Mag Grill Grits Souffle

I was flipping through the Magnolia Grill cookbook while waiting on my dentist, and came across this gem.  It's similar to my favorite cheese grits recipe, but kicks it up with eggs, butter, and garlic.  (The garlic is strangely delicious.)  Texturally, it's not quite like a souffle, but it's definitely lighter than standard grits and just slightly fluffy.  Yum.  This recipe makes 8 generous servings, and I'm betting it's not as good reheated, so plan to serve a crowd.

In a 3 qt. pot, bring to a boil

1. 2 c chicken stock
2. 1 c water
3. 1 c half and half
4. 2 t Kosher salt

Stir in

1. 1 c grits (not instant!)

and cook, stirring constantly, until thick and creamy.  Spoon some hot grits into

1. 4 egg yolks (whites reserved)

to temper, then stir yolk mixture into grits.  Stir in

1. 6 oz (1.5 c) shredded Cheddar
2. 4 T butter
3. 1/4 c roasted garlic paste or 1 T minced fresh garlic
4. Tabasco, salt, and black pepper to taste

Allow grits to cool at room temperature.  One hour before serving, preheat oven to 375 F.  Beat the 4 reserved egg whites to stiff peaks, and fold into the grits.  (Also fold in 1/2 c sliced scallions if desired, I didn't have any on hand.)  Spray 2 qt casserole with PAM (or rub with butter), and fill with grits.  Bake 35-40 minutes, until puffed and set.  Serve hot.

Turnips and Onions

I had turnips for the first time this winter, thanks to Papa Spuds.  They kept showing up on the list, and I figured, if this is what grows in the winter in NC, I should learn to cook it.  As far as I can tell, people generally treat them like potatoes and mash them.  But they're less starchy and much more watery (so they cook down), and they have a distinctive, slightly sharp flavor.  It reminds me a little of horseradish, for some reason -- I think this dish would be amazing with a nice steak for that reason.

They look a bit homely, but trust me, this is good stuff for a cold winter night.

In salted water to cover, boil

1. 1 1/2 lbs. turnips, peeled and cubed (about 3 medium)

until tender, about 15 minutes.  Drain and return to the warm burner to dry slightly, then mash with a hand masher and mix with

1. 1/4 c cream

Place mashed turnips in a greased casserole dish.

While the turnips boil, put a large stainless steel skillet over medium heat.  (Nonstick won't work because the onions don't caramelize as well or develop as much fond, and cast iron won't work because you can't see the difference between caramelized and burnt against the dark surface.  Stainless it is.)  Add

1. 1 T butter
2. 1 T olive oil
3. 2 medium yellow onions, sliced
4. 1 t sugar
5. salt to taste

Cook, stirring frequently, until onions are soft and browned, and a thick layer of brown fond has collected on the bottom of the pan.  If the fond begins to turn very dark and look or smell burnt, reduce the heat!  To the hot skillet, add

1. 1/4 c water
2. 1 T balsamic vinegar

With a wooden spoon, stir rapidly, scraping the bottom of the pan clean.  All the fond should dissolve and coat the onions.  (Bonus:  cleanup will be easy.)  Continue to cook over medium-low heat until the excess water evaporates and the onions are coated a rich brown sauce.  (If you take it too far and bits begin to stick to the bottom again, add more water and repeat the cycle.)  Layer the onions over the turnips in the casserole.

Bake in a moderate oven until heated through and bubbling, about 15 minutes.  350 F will work fine, but so will most other temperatures, and the time isn't too critical.  This is a good way to hold the turnips until the rest of the meal comes together.  Both the turnips and the onions really cook down a surprising amount, so this only makes 3-4 servings.  I'm sure it could easily be doubled, though.

Creamed Spinach

The last year, I've really been into kale. It all started with this recipe on Orangette. And this time of year, Papa Spuds has great kale available every week.

Unfortunately, pregnant women get random cravings and aversions, and kale is currently on Katy's naughty list. So we ordered spinach instead, which would be fine -- but this was not your tender, sweet, salad-ready baby spinach. This was rugged, leathery, muddy spinach that had been fighting off the cold weather tooth and nail.  Mature spinach, to put it delicately.  I was worried it was going to be inedible, actually.

Creaming saves the day.  There's no magic chemistry to creaming spinach (or corn, which also loves to be creamed).  But it sure is delicious.  This is a fairly high fat version, which doesn't hurt the deliciousness of course, but you could eliminate the butter and replace the cream with milk and it would still be fine.  The cornstarch gives body to the sauce, which is particularly important for the low-fat version.
In a medium pot, cook until wilted, stirring contantly

1. 1 large bunch spinach with stems, washed, dried, and coarsely chopped (about 8 oz.)
2. 1 T butter
3. salt to taste

I think you can skip this step and immediately add the next ingredients, but this is the way I actually tried it last night.  If you're omitting the butter, definitely skip ahead -- don't try wilting the spinach in a dry pot.  Whisk together

1. 1/2 c half-and-half
2. 1 1/2 t cornstarch
3. fresh ground black pepper
4. few grates fresh nutmeg
5. 1/4 t smoked paprika

It's important to blend the cornstarch into the cold cream before heating, so that it doesn't clump.  Stir into the spinach and simmer over low heat, covered, until the spinach is tender and the sauce is thickened, about 10 minutes.  You could replace the paprika with a little cayenne, or some Tabasco, or a touch of chipotle puree -- anything spicy.  But it really needs that little touch to wake it up.  The same basic recipe also works for corn, although I'd drop the spices and stick to salt and pepper.

As a footnote, cornstarch is a really useful thickener.  Like flour, the starch molecules unwind and thicken the liquid they're suspended in when heated to near boiling.  But unlike flour, which generally has to be cooked in a roux to get rid of the raw taste, cornstarch doesn't taste like much of anything.  It's also quite efficient as a thickener -- you need about 1 T cornstarch per cup, as opposed to 2 T of flour.

Acidified Austrian Potato Salad

I love potato salad (of all types), but I have a problem:  mine always ends up half way to mashed potatoes by the time I'm done.  I guess there's a magic moment when the potatoes are tender but will still hold their shapes, but I never find it.  In an effort to avoid crunchy potatoes, I always overcook them.

However, I learned from Cook's Illustrated that potatoes respond to acid the same way beans do.  That is, acidic conditions keep the cell walls of beans from breaking down and becoming tender, and (slightly) basic conditions promote faster "cooking".  But potatoes cook a lot faster than beans, so instead we can use a little bit of acid -- about 2 T per quart -- to protect them from overcooking.  Conveniently, they seem to cook to the perfect tender-firm texture for potato salad, and then just hold there for another 5 minutes or so!

This particular recipe is similar to a German or Austrian style potato salad, but the same technique would work for a vinaigrette- or mayonnaise-based salad.  Still, this one is well worth a try -- it's got great flavors, and it's actually pretty healthy.

In a 12-inch skillet, bring to the boil

1. 2 pounds Yukon Gold or other potatoes, peeled and cubed
2. 1 c chicken broth
3. 1 c water
4. 1 t salt
5. 1 T sugar
6. 1 T vinegar (scant)

Reduce heat;  cover and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes.  Uncover and increase heat for 2 minutes to reduce liquid to about 1/2 cup.  (If you have more or less, you'll have to drain the potatoes, measure the liquid, and then discard some or supplement with water.  If it looks like about 1/2 cup though, just dump it all in!)  Mash together

1. 1/2 c potato cooking liquid
2. 1 T vinegar
3. 1 T Dijon mustard
4. 1/4 c vegetable oil
5. 1/2 c cooked potatoes

Fold in

1. remaining potatoes
2. 3/4 c finely chopped red onion (1 small)
3. 2 T minced cornichons or kosher dill pickles
4. 2 T minced fresh chives
5. salt and pepper to taste

Serve warm or chilled.

Cucumber bean salad

This is a really cheap salad that I made out of desperation with things that were left over in the fridge. Surprisingly, it turned out to be quite tasty! The inspiration was flavors from salsa.

Whisk together

1. 1/4 c extra virgin olive oil
2. 3 T cider vinegar
3. 1 T tomato paste
4. 1 t chipotle-in-adobo puree

Pour over

1. 2 large cucumbers, diced
2. 1 (15 oz) can of white beans, rinsed and drained
3. 1/4 c minced white onion
4. 1/4 c chopped cilantro

Add salt and pepper to taste. Should feed at least 4 as a side.

Thai glazed carrots

Carrots? Yes, carrots. I like them in things -- stir fries, pilaf, couscous. And they're fine for snacking, with dip or hummus. But on their own, cooked, I always thought of them as bland and mushy, not far removed from baby food. Even the carrots in ginger ale recipe was a little bland.

These carrots are much nicer: a little tangy, a little sweet (not too much), even a little spicy. And since Katy and I are really trying to watch our food budget, it doesn't hurt that they're 75 cents a pound and used things I had in the refrigerator anyway. (They got created in a what-have-we-got-in-the-fridge moment one night.) They dirty up only one pan and one spoon, which is a big plus in my book. Plus, any vegetable that brightly colored has to be good for you, right?

I used some lemongrass paste from a tube that I had left from some other recipe, when the grocery store didn't have fresh. But I think real lemongrass would be good here too. Ginger would also be nice and would probably be a perfectly respectable substitute.

The Key limes were also a bargain at ~$3 for a whole bag. Although the Key lime cupcakes looked and tasted like playdough, the rest of the limes kept nicely in the refrigerator and made themselves appreciated at several meals later in the week.

This technique is from The Best 30-Minute Recipe, but the flavors are mine. The amounts below are guesses, because I wasn't measuring when I made this :)

Thai glazed carrots

In a large skillet over medium heat, combine

1. 1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into coins on the bias (about 4 large carrots)
2. 1/3 cup water
3. 1 T sugar
4. 1/2 t salt
5. 1 t hot Asian chili or chili-garlic sauce
6. 2 t lemongrass (paste or fresh), or fresh ginger

Cover and steam until carrots are just tender when poked with the tip of a sharp knife. Remove lid and stir in

1. 1 T butter
2. 2 T sugar

Increase heat and cook, stirring, until carrots are tender (but not mushy) and glaze is thickened and lightly caramelized. Remove from heat and toss with

1. juice of 2 Key limes, or 1/2 - 1 regular lime

Goes nicely with a variety of things, even if the rest of the meal isn't Asian.

Cole slaws

Mmm, cole slaw. Both the recipes here make enough for 1 lb. of shredded cabbage, which I usually buy pre-cut as a package of tri-color slaw from the grocery store. Gudda's recipe is creamy and savory; not really my favorite, but recorded for here for posterity. I suspect it's pretty typical Pennsylvania Dutch. The other is my creation, modeled after the NC slaws I associate with church pig-pickin's and carry-out fried chicken. It should sit in the fridge for at least 24 hours, so the sugar can draw some water out of the cabbage -- otherwise the dressing is too heavy and too sweet.

Gudda's Cole Slaw

1. 1/2 c mayonnaise
2. 2 T cider vinegar
3. 1 T grated onion
4. 1/2 t celery seed
5. 1 t sugar
6. 1/2 t salt
7. 1/8 t pepper

My Sweet White Slaw

1. 1/2 c mayonnaise
2. 1/4 c sugar
3. 2 T white wine
4. 2 T white wine vinegar
5. salt, pepper, celery seed