Basic beans -- Lentil Chili

My first exposure to lentils was in a sunny plaza somewhere in Spain;  Toledo, I think.  I hadn't been eating all that well lately -- Spanish food has some spectacular highs, but then sometimes you get a bowl of tiny fish, fried whole, and you don't really feel like bones and scales for lunch.  So I was hungry, but this lentil stew was still fantastic -- deep and rich and savory and comforting, even if you (like me) had never had lentils before.  Although the details have faded by now, I keep trying to recreate that stew.  I think I'm passably close now.

This recipe started life as a meatless "chili" in Bon Appetit, and the first time I made it, the lentils never totally softened up -- they were still a little crunchy.  It turns out that beans of all types are sensitive to pH -- in acidic conditions they stay firm, in basic conditions they go soft.  So if you're cooking dry beans, you want to hold off on adding any acidic ingredients (like the tomatoes in this recipe) until the beans are already soft, or you may be waiting a very, very long time.  (Or eating crunchy beans.  Yuck.)  For insurance, you can also add a tiny pinch of baking soda (like 1/16 t, or less) to ensure the water is not acidic.  (Don't add much, or you'll likely get an off, soapy taste from the soda.  Also yuck.)

I also added meat to the recipe -- in Spain, "vegetarian" is generally interpreted as "with less ham".  The Toledo stew probably featured (hard, cured, Spanish-style) chorizo, but Italian sausage or ground beef or even bacon would add a welcome richness.  The ascetics and vegetarians among you may leave it out, of course.

In a medium-large pot, brown

1. 1/2 lb Spanish-style chorizo (or other sausage)

If you omit the meat, you'll need 2 t olive oil instead.  Now add

1. 1/2 c chopped onion

and saute until slightly softened.  Stir in

1. 2 cloves garlic, minced
2. 1 T mild ground red chile, such as New Mexico, or more to taste
3. 1 T ground cumin
4. 1 t dried oregano

You can find bags of ground chile powders for cheap in the Mexican foods section of most markets.  I've found the heat can vary considerably from batch to batch, so start slowly and add more if you need it.  I've substituted California chiles when I can't find New Mexico, but they're generally hotter.  If your pepper is very mild or you like things very hot, you may want to add some cayenne pepper as well, say 1/8 t to start.  Now stir in

1. 4 c water, plus more as needed
2. 1/4 c red wine (optional)
3. 1 c dried brown lentils, rinsed
4. small pinch (< 1/16 t) baking soda

Simmer for 15 minutes, or until the lentils are tender.  Stir in

1. 1/3 c tomato paste (that's most of a 6 oz can)

Continue to simmer uncovered until chili is thickened and lentils are tender, about 15 minutes.  Add water as needed if it gets too thick.  Before serving, stir in

1. 1/3 c sliced green onions

Top with additional green onions and sour cream (if desired) for garnish.  Serves 4 for dinner (3 if you omit the meat).

Like oil and water

Like oil and water -- that's how I get along with French cooking.  Not that I don't respect the French.  But many of their best dishes require exacting technique, and I'm usually too lazy or too klutzy for anything that precise.  So while my good friend Brian can whip up a lovely vinaigrette the proper traditional way, I was all too happy to discover a cheat.

Most French sauces that blend oily things and watery things have the benefit of egg yolk to hold them together -- hollandaise, bearnaise, mayonnaise.  The lecithin in the egg acts as an emulsifier to allow one of the liquids to "dissolve" in the other, much like soap allows cooking grease to "dissolve" in dish water.  Vinaigrettes are not so lucky -- they have oil, vinegar, and maybe little mustard.  (The mustard helps a little, but not nearly as much as egg yolk.)  So getting a smooth, relatively stable vinaigrette requires adding the oil very slowly and whisking quickly, so that it's so finely broken up it takes at least a few minutes to separate out again.  Too much work.

The folks at Cook's Illustrated discovered, however, that a little dab of mayonnaise from the jar in your fridge will make the vinaigrette emulsify quickly and remain stable for more than an hour.  You can be fairly sloppy about your whisking, or even dump everything in a jar and shake, and it still comes out nice.  That's science I can use.

The basic proportions go like this.  If you're diligent with the whisk, the vinaigrette will be smoother, and thus taste less tart -- you can get away with the lesser amount of oil.  If you're lazy like me, I'd recommend 4 T oil.  The "acid" could be wine vinegar, balsamic, lemon juice, etc.

1. 1 T wine vinegar (or other acid)
2. 1/2 t mayonnaise (regular or light)
   
3. 1/2 t Dijon mustard
4. salt and pepper
   
5. 3 - 4 T extra-virgin olive oil (or other oil)

Combine everything but the oil thoroughly, then whisk in the oil.  Although I haven't tried it, I bet you can get away with dumping it all in a jar and shaking thoroughly too.  You don't have to measure the mayo either -- a little dab should be about right.

Cook's offers a half-dozen variations on this theme:  some shallot, some garlic, some herbs, some citrus zest.  But once you know the proportions above, you can really make the rest up as you go along.

Incidentally, contrary to vinaigrette's reputation, this isn't a very "light" dressing -- it's mostly oil.  It should have about 180 fat calories per 2 T serving.  On the other hand, I made homemade Ranch the other night, and between the lite mayo and the 1% buttermilk, I figure it had quite a lot less fat in it than most of the commercial dressings in my fridge -- somewhere south of 30 fat calories per serving.  (And it tasted good, unlike "lite" Ranch.)  But that's the subject of another post...

The x-ray structure of ginger

Or maybe not. But it's crystalized, at least, and that's as close as I've gotten to structural biology lately. Crystallized (a.k.a. candied) ginger is yummy stuff, but my local Harris Teeter informs me that they only carry it during the holidays. Hmpf. So now I make my own, and it's not too hard, and even the by-products are useful. I love food like that, where nothing is wasted.

I went down this road because of Molly Wizenberg's book, where she describes banana bread with chocolate chips and crystallized ginger. She has another version of the recipe on her blog, but it's not the same as the book. But really, you can use any banana bread: just add in 3/4 c of chocolate chips (Ghirardelli 60%, if you have them) and 1/3 c crystallized ginger.

This recipe is the average, approximately, of what I turned up in a Google search. All the recipes were wildly different. So whatever you do, it will probably turn out just fine.

Start with

1. 1 pound ginger, peeled and sliced thin

How thin is a matter of debate: too thin and they become insubstantial wisps after cooking, too thick and you get a rude jolt of ginger. I think 1/8" is about right (i.e., stack 8 slices and they should measure 1 inch). A vegetable peeler is good for peeling the ginger. Place the ginger in a medium-large saucepan with

1. water to barely cover

Simmer for 20 or 30 minutes. You can also steam the ginger and maybe retain a little more flavor, if you prefer.

Pour off almost all of the ginger water, leaving about 1/2 c behind. (You can save it if you want, mix it with the syrup, and pour over ice for a ginger-beer-like beverage, minus the bubbles.) Add

1. a large quantity of sugar

until you have a saturated sugar solution, more or less. You'll be boiling off excess water, so it doesn't matter too much -- it just takes longer if you skimp on the sugar. I think it's about 2 cups of sugar per 1/2 cup of water in the pot. Simmer until the ginger is translucent and the syrup forms tall, sticky mounds of small bubbles that cover the ginger and threaten to climb out of the pot. (Don't skimp on pot size, either.) You want to stop before the sugar takes on any caramel color at all.

Remove the ginger from the pot with a fork or slotted spoon and place it on a Silpat. (If you don't have one, get one; but in the meantime I'd try a greased cookie sheet.) Try to leave as much syrup behind as you can. Let the ginger dry for 8 - 16 hours, then toss with generous additional sugar while still slightly sticky and chop to desired size. Add more sugar as necessary to keep ginger pieces separated. Store in a plastic container at room temperature.

I'd save the ginger syrup if I were you. It could be good on vanilla ice cream, or drizzled over the aforementioned banana bread. I'm also thinking it would be good with pancakes topped with banana slices. Or perhaps with berries and whipped cream? Or go savory and make a gingery sweet and sour sauce for stir-fry. So many possibilities. Let me know what works out for you!

Baby Meatballs

As in, meatballs for a baby, not cute little meatballs. These are one of the few proteins Evan will eat, and I can see why -- they're really quite delicious, no matter how old you are. The trick is in the grated apple and in breading them before cooking. The recipe is from First Meals by Annabel Karmel.

In a mixing bowl, combine

1. 1 lb. ground beef
2. 1 onion, finely chopped
3. 1 T chopped fresh parsley (optional)
4. 1 chicken bouillon cube dissolved in 2 T hot water (Mmmm, MSG!)
5. 1 small apple, peeled and coarsely grated
6. 1/2 t Worcestershire sauce
7. pinch brown sugar
8. salt and pepper, to taste

Mix thoroughly, then shape into about 24 meatballs. Roll in all-purpose flour to coat, then saute in a little olive oil until browned on all sides and cooked through.

These keep for a few days in the fridge, or you can put them in a plastic container and freeze them. It's easy to take out 1 or 2 frozen meatballs and heat them for ~30 seconds in the microwave for instant baby dinner!

Marshmallows!

Until recently, I had never considered that marshmallows were something you could make at home. Judging by the responses my first batch got, a lot of other people hadn't considered it either. But in fact, it's not that hard to do; they're one of the easiest candies I've ever tried.

To make indoor S'mores, set marshmallows in a nonstick skillet and broil on low power until lightly toasted. (Watch 'em -- they burn within seconds!) Add graham crackers, chocolate, and enjoy.

This recipe is Molly Wizenberg's, from the July 2008 Bon Appetit. (Yes, it sat in my to-make pile for a year. Anymore, that's not too bad.)

In the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer, combine

1. 1/2 c cold water
2. 3 (1/4 oz) packets unflavored gelatin, such as Knox

Let stand until gelatin softens, at least 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a heavy medium saucepan, combine

1. 2 c sugar
2. 2/3 c light corn syrup
3. 1/4 salt
4. 1/2 c cold water

Heat and stir until dissolved, then boil without stirring until syrup reaches 240 F. (Use a candy thermometer, please.)

With the mixer's whisk running slowly, pour sugar syrup into gelatin in a thin stream. To direct the stream into the bowl and away from the whisk, I like to pour down the handle of a wooden spoon. Gradually increase speed to high and whisk until mixture is very thick and stiff, 10-15 minutes. Add

1. 2 t vanilla extract

and whisk to combine.

Scrape marshmallow mix into 13" x 9" pan lined with aluminum foil and sprayed with nonstick spray. Smooth top with a wet spatula. Allow to cool completely, about 4 hours.

Sift together

1. 1/2 c potato starch (a.k.a. potato flour)*
2. 1/2 c powdered sugar

Generously dust counter with starch-sugar mix, and invert pan of marshmallows. Generously dust top of slab. Cut into 2" squares (good luck!) and toss with starch-sugar mix to coat. If you're a domestically-inclined ninja, cut them into fun shapes instead. Set on a wire rack to dry for bit before storing in a sealed plastic container.

* I couldn't find potato starch at my grocery store, so I took plain instant mashed potato flakes and ground them to dust in my food processor. It seems to have worked, and remarkably enough, the marshmallows had no hint of potato flavor.

Cheerwine ice cream

Seriously -- what a great idea. Wish I'd thought of it, but Jeanne and Bruce found it in a magazine somewhere. Note that it makes 3 quarts, which is two batches in my little ice cream maker. For those that don't know, Cheerwine is a regional soft drink that's somewhere between Dr. Pepper and Cherry Coke (but better than either!).

In a double boiler, whisk until thickened

1. 4 eggs
2. 2 c whole milk

Whisk in

1. 2 c sugar

Whisk until sugar is dissolved, then remove from heat and strain through a fine-mesh strainer to remove any curdled egg. (I omitted this step because it wasn't in the directions, to my later regret.) Stir in

1. 1 (14 oz) can sweetened condensed milk
2. 1 (12 oz) can evaporated milk

Refrigerate until cold, at least several hours and preferably over night. Just before churning, stir in

1. 2 1/2 c cold Cheerwine
2. 2 c whole milk

Churn according to the directions for your ice cream maker.

Sausage, roasted red pepper, and spinach torta rustica

A really easy and delicious recipe I clipped from Bon Appetit. The substitutions (frozen spinach, half-and-half) are mine. I suspect you could substitute some cheap Swiss for the Fontina to reduce the cost some more, as the cheese is pretty easily the most expensive ingredient.

Butter a 8x8 glass baking dish and line with

1. 16 (1/4") baguette slices

Combine and add to dish

1. 12 oz fresh baby spinach leaves, wilted in 1T butter or 10 oz frozen spinach, squeezed dry
2. 1 lb. sweet Italian sausage, casing removed and sausage browned
3. 1 c (4 oz) grated Fontina cheese
4. 3/4 c diced drained roasted red peppers (from a jar)

Whisk together and pour over top

1. 6 eggs
2. 1 c heavy cream + 1 c whole milk or 2 c half-and-half
3. 1 t salt
4. 1/4 t pepper

Sprinkle with

1. 1/2 c (2 oz) grated Fontina cheese (1.5 c / 6 oz total)

Bake at 350 F for 55 minutes. Let cool 15 minutes before serving.

Cucumber bean salad

This is a really cheap salad that I made out of desperation with things that were left over in the fridge. Surprisingly, it turned out to be quite tasty! The inspiration was flavors from salsa.

Whisk together

1. 1/4 c extra virgin olive oil
2. 3 T cider vinegar
3. 1 T tomato paste
4. 1 t chipotle-in-adobo puree

Pour over

1. 2 large cucumbers, diced
2. 1 (15 oz) can of white beans, rinsed and drained
3. 1/4 c minced white onion
4. 1/4 c chopped cilantro

Add salt and pepper to taste. Should feed at least 4 as a side.