1/04/2015

Potato cinnamon rolls

This is my current favorite cinnamon roll recipe, adapted from "Jailhouse potato-cinnamon rolls" in Pastry Queen by Rebecca Rather.  I've added an overnight rise inspired by Alton Brown, cut the recipe in half so it fits in a mixer, and found I need more flour (and more baking time) than Rather claims.  The recipe still feeds an army (16 good-sized rolls), but it can be doubled with big enough bowls.  (Use 3 whole eggs instead of 2 eggs and 2 yolks.)

Start by peeling, cubing,  and boiling one medium russet potato for ~15 minutes in unsalted water.  Save the water and let it cool to ~110 F (or add a little ice to speed it on its way).  Mash 8 oz of potato in the stand mixer using the beater or whisk.  Now, you can combine the other ingredients directly in the mixer using the whisk:

  1. 8 oz (1 c) mashed russet potato
  2. 1.5 c potato water, cooled to <110 f="" li="">
  3. 4 t (0.5 oz) rapid-rise or bread-machine yeast
  4. 2 5/8 oz (3/8 c) sugar
  5. 1 stick (1/2 c) butter, melted
  6. 1 egg plus 1 yolk
  7. 1 t salt

Whisk well to combine, then use the dough hook to mix in flour just until the dough comes together:

  1. 30 oz (~6 c) unbleached all-purpose flour

Let dough rise, covered, until doubled, about 1 hour.  (It will fill the mixer bowl to the top.)
For the filling, use either

  1. 2 c brown sugar
  2. 1 T cinnamon
  3. 2 c toasted pecans (optional)

or

  1. 2 c granulated sugar
  2. 1 T orange zest (from one orange)

Divide the dough in half, and roll each half out into a large rectangle.  Brush each half with

  1. 2-3 T melted butter

Top each dough half with half the filling, roll it up, and slice into 8 rolls (16 total).  We typically arrange these as a Christmas tree shape on a half sheet pan (rows of 1, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1).  You could also put them in a 9x13 pan (5 rows of 3, cut one less roll) or two smaller pans.  Refrigerate overnight;  rolls will rise slowly.  Alternately, freeze rolls and wrap well;  thaw overnight in the refrigerator.

Remove rolls from refrigerator and preheat oven to 375 F.  (Set rolls over a pan of hot water if they need to rise more, although they will expand significantly in the oven.)  Bake rolls until dough is set in the centermost rolls, about 35-40 minutes in the Christmas tree configuration.  I think the dough in the middle needs to reach 175-180 F or so to set -- in the Christmas tree configuration, the rolls on the edges are deeply browned by this point.  Next time I might try a somewhat lower temperature for a longer time, or tenting the top with foil.  Baking time in a high-sided pan is likely to be quite different, but might result in more uniform rolls.

Cinnamon rolls should be frosted with

  1. 4 3/4 oz (1 1/4 c) powdered sugar
  2. 2 T buttermilk (or milk)
  3. 1/4 t vanilla extract

Orange rolls should be frosted with

  1. 4 3/4 oz (1 1/4 c) powdered sugar
  2. 2 T fresh-squeezed orange juice (from one orange)
  3. 1 T orange zest (from one orange)

I've tried using orange extract to amp up the orange flavor of these rolls, but the alcohol gave it an unpleasant taste.  I'm considering a mixed citrus version (lime?  grapefruit?) next year.