Mom's meringue cookies

These were a Christmas tradition growing up -- airy shells of sugar filled with chocolate. They're delicate, crispy-crumbly, mostly dry but just a bit chewy in the middle. The recipe comes from my mother and her mother, and who knows before that. Prep is pretty simple and the ingredients are few, which may explain why Mom made hundreds of these for teacher gifts, family gatherings, and holiday parties.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, whip to until very foamy, but not yet beginning to peak (about 1 minute)

1. 2 egg whites

Any fat at all (greasy bowl, trace of yolk, etc) will keep the whites from reaching the appropriate volume.  Slowly add sugar, and whip at high speed until soft-to-medium peaks (this may take several minutes)

1. 2/3 c sugar (4 5/8 oz)

At medium speed, whip just until incorporated

1. 1 t vanilla extract
2. 1 t cream of tartar (can be omitted in a pinch)

With a rubber spatula, fold in

1. 1 c chocolate chips (6 oz)
2. 1/2 c pecans, chopped to the size of the chips (optional; I leave these out)

Portion out by level tablespoons into 3 dozen cookies on two well-buttered cookie sheets. (Parchment paper or a Silpat is even better.) The cookies don't spread, but will approximately double in volume when baked, so leave about 1.5" between. Place sheets in a preheated 350 F oven and immediately turn off the heat. Leave cookies in the closed oven overnight or at least 8 hours. They will be dry and crisp, but not browned.

My mother-in-law says that her mother made these with chopped berries, so I may try that next!

Pasta with smoked salmon and rosemary cream

This was a yummy dinner that came about almost by accident. We had some salmon that Neil from our parents' group had caught and smoked, and some fresh rosemary from the garden outside Liz and Bob's new house. The salmon wasn't the sort of barely cooked stuff you find sometimes; it was fully cooked, kind of a delicious salmon jerky. To top the whole thing off, we had some smoked salt from Market Spice down at Pike Place -- the crunch and extra smoke was a really nice touch.

Amounts are approximate because I'm guessing after the fact. Cook

1. 8oz dried pasta, such as penne

in boiling salted water until almost done. Drain.

Meanwhile, in a large skillet over medium heat, combine

1. 2 c heavy cream
2. 3/4 c shredded Parmesean
3. 1 sprig fresh rosemary
4. 6 oz smoked salmon, chopped

Cook just until cheese is incorporated and mixture is slightly thickened. Add drained pasta and cook until pasta is tender and coated in sauce. Serve garnished with

1. Salish smoked sea salt (from Market Spice)
   

Turkey gravy

We hosted Thanksgiving for the first time this year, so it was my first time cooking a turkey. I followed the salted turkey recipe from last year's Cooks Illustrated, and it came out well. I think icing down the breast meat really did help everything finish at the same time.

For the gravy, on the other hand, I didn't have a recipe exactly. The day before, I had seen Alton Brown making one with red wine on TV, and I had the trusty Ultimate Southern Living -- but neither was quite what I (thought I) wanted. Funny enough, the gravy got more compliments than anything else I made. So I'm recording it here for next year!

In a medium saucepan, simmer for 45 minutes:

1. half an onion, chopped
2. handful of carrot pieces
3. celery seed (would've used celery if I'd had it)
4. 2 bay leaves
5. large spring fresh thyme
6. small bunch fresh parsley
7. salt and pepper
8. turkey neck
9. turkey gizzard and heart (no liver) (pictures for identifying the pieces)
   
10. water to cover

Strain, chill, skim. Yields ~3 cups stock.

While turkey is resting, pour off all drippings from the roasting pan (don't scrape). Place over burners, add ~1 cup stock, and scrape until all browned bits are dissolved and pan is clean.

In a medium saucepan, make a roux with

1. 4 T butter (half a stick)
2. 1/4 c flour

Pour in pan juices through a fine-mesh sieve and whisk to combine. Whisk in additional broth as needed to reach desired consistency, keeping in mind that full thickening won't happen until the gravy comes to a simmer.

Thai glazed carrots

Carrots? Yes, carrots. I like them in things -- stir fries, pilaf, couscous. And they're fine for snacking, with dip or hummus. But on their own, cooked, I always thought of them as bland and mushy, not far removed from baby food. Even the carrots in ginger ale recipe was a little bland.

These carrots are much nicer: a little tangy, a little sweet (not too much), even a little spicy. And since Katy and I are really trying to watch our food budget, it doesn't hurt that they're 75 cents a pound and used things I had in the refrigerator anyway. (They got created in a what-have-we-got-in-the-fridge moment one night.) They dirty up only one pan and one spoon, which is a big plus in my book. Plus, any vegetable that brightly colored has to be good for you, right?

I used some lemongrass paste from a tube that I had left from some other recipe, when the grocery store didn't have fresh. But I think real lemongrass would be good here too. Ginger would also be nice and would probably be a perfectly respectable substitute.

The Key limes were also a bargain at ~$3 for a whole bag. Although the Key lime cupcakes looked and tasted like playdough, the rest of the limes kept nicely in the refrigerator and made themselves appreciated at several meals later in the week.

This technique is from The Best 30-Minute Recipe, but the flavors are mine. The amounts below are guesses, because I wasn't measuring when I made this :)

Thai glazed carrots

In a large skillet over medium heat, combine

1. 1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into coins on the bias (about 4 large carrots)
2. 1/3 cup water
3. 1 T sugar
4. 1/2 t salt
5. 1 t hot Asian chili or chili-garlic sauce
6. 2 t lemongrass (paste or fresh), or fresh ginger

Cover and steam until carrots are just tender when poked with the tip of a sharp knife. Remove lid and stir in

1. 1 T butter
2. 2 T sugar

Increase heat and cook, stirring, until carrots are tender (but not mushy) and glaze is thickened and lightly caramelized. Remove from heat and toss with

1. juice of 2 Key limes, or 1/2 - 1 regular lime

Goes nicely with a variety of things, even if the rest of the meal isn't Asian.

No-knead Dutch oven bread

Despite the name -- and the technique -- this recipe makes far and away the best loaf I've ever made home. The crust is deep golden brown, and so crisp that it crackles and sings as it cools on the counter. The interior has large air pockets, an open structure, and a nice chewiness. The recipe appeared in the Jan/Feb 2008 Cook's Illustrated.

So far, I've only tried it with water in place of the beer, but it's still quite good that way. Supposedly the beer enhances the flavor further, but only very mild lager beers -- anything else adds weird spicy notes. And although I usually use King Arthur flours, Cook's develops their recipes with Gold Medal (if I remember correctly). So I can use basically any old unbleached all-purpose flour, which is nice since my local grocery charges double for the King Arthur stuff :(

As for timing, I start the dough in the late evening, shape it in the early afternoon of the next day, and then eat it with dinner. You pretty much have to be home the day of the baking, although there's very little active time.

In a large bowl, combine into a shaggy dough

1. 15 oz unbleached all-purpose flour (such as Gold Medal), a bit more than 3 cups
2. 1/4 t instant or bread-machine yeast
3. 1.5 t salt
4. 7 oz water
5. 3 oz mild lager (such as Budweiser), or 3 oz water
6. 1 T white or apple cider vinegar

Stir just until the dough comes together into a shaggy ball, then cover with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for 8 to 18 hours. (Yes, really. The long rise is essential for autolysis and gluten development.)

Grease a sheet of parchment paper and greased side up in a 10" skillet. Transfer dough to a lightly floured surface and kneed 10 - 15 times, then shape into a ball and place on the parchment. (So little kneeding is necessary due to the extra long autolysis.) Cover loosely with greased plastic wrap and let rise 2 hours, until doubled in size.

30 minutes before baking, place a 6 - 8 qt Dutch oven or heavy stockpot in the oven and preheat to 500 F. Make a 6" long, 1/2" deep cut in the top of the bread, then gently transfer to the hot pot by lifting the edges of the parchment. Replace the lid, return to the oven, and decrease heat to 425 F. Bake for 30 minutes, then remove lid. Bake another 20 - 30 minutes, until dark golden brown or interior temperature hits 210 F. Transfer to wire rack and cool 2 hours. Best the day it's made, but keeps up to 2 days wrapped in foil.

Easy Chocolate Peanut Butter Chip Bars

Well, I guess the title says it all. Nice bar cookies that ridiculously easy to make. Not healthy by any stretch, but tasty.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In 9" x 13" pan in oven, melt

1. 1 stick (1/2 c) butter

Sprinkle evenly over butter

1. 1 1/2 cup graham cracker crumbs

Pour evenly over crumbs

1. 1 (14oz.) can sweetened condensed milk

Top with

1. 1 (12 oz.) package semi-sweet chocolate chips
2. 1 cup peanut butter chips

Press down firmly. Bake 25 to 30 minutes until lightly browned. Cool and cut into bars. Makes 24 to 36 bars.
I learned the hard way I would spray the pan with Pam next time I make these.

Strawberry Cake

Strawberry Cake comes from my wife's Grandma Rose, who produces all manner of good ol' Southern treats.  I shouldn't be surprised, but Paula Deen makes an almost identical recipe (though she uses a cream cheese frosting).  This cake is alarmingly pink but supremely delicious.

Mix together

1. 1 box white cake mix (18.25 oz)
2. 1 small box strawberry Jell-O (3 oz.)
3. 3/4 c vegetable oil
4. 4 eggs

Stir in

1. 1 c strawberries, thawed (from frozen sweetened strawberries, juice reserved)

Pour into a greased 9 x 13 pan and bake at 350 F for 35-40 minutes or until done. (Can also be baked as two 9" rounds, although baking time may have to be adjusted.)

In an electric mixer, cream

1. 6 T butter (3/4 stick)

Gradually add

1. 1 lb. powdered sugar (~4.75 c)
2. 1/4 c juice from frozen strawberries
3. 1 t vanilla

Slowly add about half the sugar, then half the juice and all the vanila, then the rest of the sugar. Add enough additional juice to reach frosting consistency. Allow cake to cool to room temperature before frosting, so frosting doesn't melt!